Centuries ago it had a higher profile, especially in Persia where it was thought of as a cure-all. Legend has it that it also promoted long life. This has much to do with its soothing qualities - as a tea and as an aromatic bath herb. It has been known for centuries to child-bearing women, and women with menstrual problems and cramps. But its most popular use is as a tea at bedtime because it not only induces sleep it also drives cares and worries away. It also helps to ease headaches. Use about six large leaves to a medium sized pot.

Native to Europe and a hardy perennial, balm grows well in any conditions and once established will take over a fair proportion of any garden, but try to place it in a sheltered position. It prefers a moist, warm patch of ground which has been well fertilised with manure and seaweed. Grows quickly so pick the leaves off regularly. Its leaves are nettle-like in appearance and like its close relative basil can be used to treat insect bites and stings. Balm also grows well as a pot plant in the kitchen, but it needs a large pot if it is to bush.

Despite its associations as a tea, the young balm leaves can be included in leaf salads, as a garnish for fish and in soups, and as a crushed addition to cakes and sweets when a faint lemony flavour is needed. The crushed leaves can also be used as a stuffing - especially if lentils or rice is involved, again to give a faint taste of lemon without the acidity and slight bitterness.

For vegans we are going to offer a 17th century recipe made famous by the Carmelite monks of Paris.

Balm Spirit